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The H. H. Franklin Club publishes the information listed in FAQ's solely as a convenience to its members. No endorsement is made by the Club or Region, no claim or warranty is made as to the accuracy of any of this information. No responsibility is assumed for any transactions resulting form this information. Most technical questions are answered by members that work on Franklins every day.

Last Revised Sept. 8, 1999

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Many technical questions have come to the WebMaster desk as will as questions directed to other members. In most cases we find the questions an answers to be of valuable help in finding parts replacement, oils, or just plain technical help.

In the weeks and months to come we will place the un-edited questions and answers here for your information and help. Should you have a question, please feel free to e-mail us with them. If we do not have the answer we will find some one that can help. You will receive your reply by e-mail as well as have it placed here for other members information. However, we will only list question an answers that are from Club members.

Thanks goes out to those members that have taken the time to reply to e-mail forward to them by this WebMaster. As always, the Franklin Spirit of helping one another is alive and well. Our Franklin hat is off the you, thanks. Starting June 17, 1998 we will list the name of the technical person answering the question.

OLDEST QUESTION AND ANSWER FIRST and NEWEST LAST

PAGE 1 of 2 PAGES

Question an Answer: Series 11 valves etc.

Dated November 10, 1997

Regarding the Ser. 11 -

The keepers need to be in good shape. They originally were hardened, but still wore quite badly over the years. I use 1/8" oil hardening drill rod, cut them to length with a hacksaw, then heat and oil quench. It's pretty simple work, but takes time.

I do not usually make pins for Ser. 9 - 11 as the Chev. 283 valve with Chev. keepers and Pontius retainers works so well. There is no reason, however, for you to switch to these valves if you have only one to replace. The Egged stainless valves you have are excellent. I use the 283 valve because it is far less costly in the long run. Also You can order satellite exhausts, which are pretty much indestructible and still less costly than Egged. The diameter of the Chev. 283 exhaust valve is in the 0.341 - 0.343 range.

The guides will likely be installed at slightly different heights as they have no step to locate them without a gauge when installing. this is not likely a problem unless they go in too deep, at which point a valve head can interfere with the guide.

If I were you, I think I would call Egged Machine 1-800-866-3443 and order a valve and a guide. Replace the guide and fit it to the new valve stem with 0.003+ clearance. Re-seat the valve to the cylinder seat, polish all other valve stems and hone guides to clearance. If your machine shop does not have a valve guide hone, then ream them but check every single guide and stem for consistent clearance from top to bottom. If some guides do not clean up, then install bronze sleeves or replace the guides- your machine shop should be able to do all of this.

Another thing I learned from the racers - new valves are rarely faced properly. We take every brand new valve and re-face them on our grinder. I have found that Sealed Power valves tend to be quite good, but nearly all valves are out to some degree in terms of face to stem concentricity. This can certainly affect performance of the valve and stem loads. You might ask your machine shop about it. It might be a good idea to have all your valve faces ground. This will also let you know if any others are bent.

If your guides are not countered, I guess I would not worry, but make sure the head of the valve is not interfering with the guide and your clearance is consistent from top to bottom on the valve guide.

No tighter than 0.002" on the intakes and 0.0035 on exhausts. Don't be afraid to go to 0.004 on exhausts. Check valve spring tension and make sure all are within a couple pounds of 35 lbs. seat pressure.

Use 100% synthetic or two-stroke oil only! Marvel, or Kerosene and oil WILL ACCELERATE WEAR AND MAY LEAD TO STICKING. Lots of people don't believe me on this one, but I have learned the hard way.

These are my ideas, anyway. It all seems to work well for me.

Question: Series 14 Ignition

I WONDER IF YOU COULD GIVE ME THE SPECS ON THE IGNITION SYSTEM . THE DWELL , TOTAL ADVANCE ETC.

ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED . I'M OVERHAULING THE DISTRIBUTOR AND HAVE TO HAVE THINGS RUNNING AGAIN FOR THE THANKSGIVING DAY PARADE IN DOWNTOWN ST. . LOUIS
THANKS.

Answer: Series 14 Ignition

I don't have printed specs on the distributor. I have never found a dwell reference, have always set the points by gap as per book and stobed them on a distributor machine. If you have the stock 'innards' then the total advance will not have changed from factory. If the weight springs are deteriorated, new ones may be fitted. I purchased new weight springs from a local Napa dealer and the advance curve ended up pretty close to what I feel is stock.

All my data is at work. If you want me to dig up curve data on the different side-draft distributors we've done, I can. I don't think the info is necessary if your distributor is in decent shape - no bad weights, broken or missing springs. A strobe test on a distributor machine will tell you if the cam is in good shape and the points spring of proper tension. With that done, you should be ready to install it, time is as per book and go.

Franklin owners reply:

THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. I HAD THE DISTRIBUTOR CHECKED AND THE BUSHINGS WERE GOOD . PUT IN NEW " BLUE STREAK " POINTS AND CONDENSER PLUS CAP AND ROTOR. HAD IT STOBEDAND REINSTALLED . I HAD PREVIOUSLY PAINTED THE TIMING MARKS WITH WHITE PAINT SO I COULD SEE THEM.

IT REALLY RUNS A LOT BETTER , EVEN PUT IN NEW PLUGS.

Question: Series 14 and Chev Distributors

MY SERIES 14 - 145 HAS A DELCO - REMY DISTRIBUTOR MDL# 642-B. THE CAP , ROTOR , POINTS AND CONDENSER ARE PARTS USED IN 59 TO 62 CHEV. 6 CLY. 235 CU.I ENGINES..

THE DELCO #S ARE ALL (7) SEVEN DIGIT AND IN THOSE 4YEARS 59 T0 62 THERE ARE ABOUT SIX DIFFERENT MODEL #S. DO YOU KNOW OF ANY DELCO # THAT IS A MATCH TO 642-B ? MY PARTS HOUSE CAN'T CROSS INDEX THE 4 DIGIT # TO ANY 7 DIGIT #

Answer: Series 14 and Chev Distributors

AT THE "BIG A" CHAIN OF PARTS HOUSE , WHICH SELL STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS.

CONDENSER = 32 - 821, ROTOR = 34 - 13, POINTS = 31 - 30, CAP = 33 - 22

MAYBE THIS CAN HELP SOMEONE ELSE . I APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP I HAVE GOTTEN IN THE PAST .

Don't worry about the different Chev. distributor model numbers - they all use the same points, condenser, cap and rotor and will fit your Series 14. Just tell your parts house you want the parts for a '57 Chev, and you'll get the right stuff. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll give you NAPA part numbers.

Question: Front end shimmy

December 12, 1997

I am having trouble with a shimmy in the front end and I was told that truing the tires would help this. There is a shop locally that does this, but I ran into a roadblock since this car has a 7 lug pattern which does not fit his adapters for his machine. Has anyone ever had this done before, or is there another solution to a wobbling at about 35 mph?

Answer: Front end shimmy

Perhaps I can offer some insights.

Front end shimmy is a common problem in the Franklin. The Olympic and V-12's don't suffer as badly, but can also be affected.

Shaving tires is a neat trick and can work wonders, but I have never had to do it. Usually the problem is one or more misadjustments in the front end.

Before you go to the trouble of shaving the tires you should try a few things:

Tighten ALL front end hardware - lower spring clips to axle, upper spring bolts to frame, check drag link and tie rod socket plugs - should be screwed in until bottomed, then back off one castellation.

Also adjust spring pivot bolts - inner nut should be bottomed, then backed off to next castellation.

Check front end alignment. Toe-in should be 0 to 1/8" caster should be 1 to 2 degrees, within 1/2 degree each side.

Wheel balance - some shops can spin balance the wheels off the car. I have an on-the-car wheel balancer which spins a front wheel on the car. By using a strobe sensor mounted under the axle, I can strobe the wheel and balance it quite easily. I have found that truck shops have these balancers and can balance the Franklin wheels quite easily. You will need to transfer the rear wheels to the fronts to balance those. You can also balance a fan and flywheel and driveshaft on the car with this strobe.

Steering gear adjustment - work and roller mesh and worm thrust bearing adjustment.

If the shimmy is at speeds over 30 mph, then I would suspect an extreme wheel balancing problem, bent wheel or out of true tire. Sometimes you can rotate the tire to another position on a rim to help straighten it out. Sometimes swapping tires to different rims helps.

If the shimmy is at lower speeds, loose components and an out of balance wheel are the most common culprits.

I've got a lead on a tire truing machine that I would like to have. Those I've talked to who have had it done say it has improved the ride a great deal. It will not, however, improve on any misadjustment or misbalance in the front end. this must be corrected first.

QUESTION: SERIES 14 MODEL 145 - 4 SPEED

I HAVE DEVELOPED A PROBLEM WITH MY CLUTCH.RECENTLY IT HAS GOTTN INCREASING DIFFICULT TO SHIFT GEARS WITHOUT GRINDING THE VARIOUS GEARS. I CHECKED MY FRANKLIN OPERATIONS BOOK AND IT STATESTHAT THERE MUST BE 1/16' CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE 'THROW OUT BEARINGAND THE 'PULLER YOKE.HOWEVER MY CLUTCH WAS'NT SLIPPING AND IT HAD NO CLEARANCE . PER THE MANUAL I MOVED THE ADJUST RING TWO NOTCHES CLOCKWISE.THIS HAD A POOR RESULT. I HAD TO STOP IN ORDER TO CHANGE A GEAR.OTHERWISE IT WOULDN'T SHIFT.I READJUSTED THE RINGS TO THE POINT WHERE THE CLUTCH WOULD SLIP UNDER A LOAD , BUT IT WAS STILL TOO NOISEY AND DID'NT WANT TO SHIFT.ONLY QUIETLY SHIFTING WHEN STAND STILL.

I ALMOST HAVE THE OPINION THAT NO MATTER WHICH WAY I ADJUST IT IT IS NOT DISENGAGING.
DO YOU THINK THIS IS A CLUCH PROBLEM OR COULD IT BE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM?DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS HOW TO CURE OR CORRECT ?

THE INSTRUCTION BOK IMPLIES THAT YOU SHOULDN'T ADJUST THE FOOT LEVER AND OR SHAFT UNLESS THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN TAKEN APART 'DICK DEGREGA TOOK THE SRSTEM APART WHEN HE REBUILT THE CAR.I CAN'T UNDERSTAND THE RECENT DETERIORATION , ALTHOUGH I HAVE BEEN DRIVING IT MORE.SINCE I AM RETIRED.

Owners: Comments later in the day

AFTER CAREFULLY LOOKING AT MY PROBLEM , I HAVE COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT THE MAJOR PROBLEMS ARE COLD THICK TRANSMISSION GREASE AND AN UNSYNCHRONIZED 67 YEAR OLD TRANS MISSION.
THINK I'LL TRY SYNTHETIC 75-90 WGT AND USE IT UNTIL SPRING . PLUS IMPROVING MY SHIFTING TECHNIQUE .
SHOULD YOU HAVE ANY BETTER THOUGHTS PLEASE LET ME KNOW;

The Answer: SERIES 14 MODEL 145 - 4 SPEED

Since the transmission shifts without grinding when the car is at rest, I think I agree that shifting technique may be the required focus.

When I got my first Franklin running - a 1928, I had a terrible problem shifting it. I had a 1930 Ford and a 1928 Studebaker - both with non synchromesh "crash boxes" and had no trouble shifting those cars up or down. My Franklin gave me fits. I called a good Franklin friend, who lived nearby, and he came over to give it a drive. He drove it perfectly, without the slightest grind. I was extremely embarrassed as I had told him the transmission had a real problem.

Anyway, once I knew the trans was o.k., I played around with shifting just a bit and soon got the hang of it. It's not that the Franklin has an odd trans, it's just that ALL cars shift a bit differently. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes 2nd nature.

If the gear lube is too thick, you will need to shift far more quickly that if the lube is thin. The 75-90W sounds just fine. It will slow down the shifts, requiring a longer pause between gears. By the way, does your car have a 3 speed or a 4 speed. The warner 4 speeds are a ball in a sporty Franklin, but they are probably the trickiest to shift.

Try the lighter gear oil for now, then go to a 140W in the spring.

Keep playing around with it, it sounds like you’re having fun!

QUESTION: OIL FILTERS

January 16, 1998

What flow through oil filter replacement do I use on a 1932 cross draft engine? We have a '31 convertible and '32 Airman deluxe that haven't had the oil filters changed in QUITE A WHILE.

ANSWER: OIL FILTERS

In checking for the oil filters we find the following: Franklin Service Station #56 page 3, Wix brand engine oil filter part # 51035, can be substituted for Franklin #89021 and has an overall length of 6". Maybe be used on Series 15, 16, 18 and 19 maybe other too.

Please let us know how this works out for you.

January 17, 1998

Question is: 1930 Model 147 problem is in the steering

I have a question about a steering problem I have with my Franklin. I have a 1930 Model 147, and my problem is in the steering--one must have the strength of Arnold Schwarzenegger to steer my car. I serviced the steering box with grease (after installing a new grease fitting--it took quite a bit of grease). I have jacked the car and disconnected the steering linkage. The wheel turns somewhat freely, but binds a bit in the middle of the throw of the wheel. The end of the steering arm has about one inch of play (also not a good thing). The front wheels move fairly freely, without any indication of worn kingpins. I believe that the steering box is worn--what do you think? Do you have any tips on removal? Is the steering box easily rebuilt, can it be done at a local machine shop, transmission shop, or should I find a specialist? Are parts available? Thanks for your help.

ANSWER: 1930 Model 147 problem is in the steering

It sounds like you could have a number of problems going on at one time. The first problem could be lubrication. You said you filled it with grease. What kind of grease? The best lubricant for the steering gear is a heavy gear oil. I use a 140 Weight gear oil. You can use the 600W stuff sold by Ford suppliers. You can also use regular over-the-counter gear oil, but it is likely to leak out quickly if you do not install modern seals in the steering box.

2nd problem - One inch of play in the pitman arm - not so good, as you surmised. What kind of play in the steering wheel does this translate to? Best case scenario - the box needs a good adjustment. Worst case - the thrust bearings for the sector roller are shot - very common.

To adjust the box, follow the procedures outlined in the book very carefully. The book describes the procedure well, better than I could. The only difference is in the roller to worm adjustment - when these boxes get old and worn, they tend to be looser in the straight ahead position due to wear. If you set them up with very little play in the wheel while straight ahead, they can frequently bind up to either side of center where the wear is not so great.

The best thing to do is to set them up so there is just a tad of free play at the highest spot on the worm gear. The play in the wheel will end up at an amount proportional to the amount of wear on the worm. Note that you cannot make this adjustment without adjusting the steering shaft bearings and roller shaft end-thrust first. Again, follow the book.

If you cannot eliminate huge amounts of free play in the steering wheel, then you will need to remove the box and check out the bearings inside. The roller has two thrust bearings. These are needle bearings held in a die-cast cage. The die cast cages are known to disintegrate, thus causing the bearing to fail. If both bearings fail, you can end up with over a half a turn of free play in the wheel.

If this is the case, you will need new cages. They were available at one time through a Club member, but are no longer. Hank Manwell or Paul Fitzpatrick may have some pieces left, but I happen to know that Clarence Borgmeyer - West Palm, Florida, just had to fabricate a set for his own Ser. 14. You can contact him through AOL - PalmCB@aol.com

I really would like to run a project and make a bunch of these bearings but will not likely do so very soon as time is simply not available.

Last thing - the king pins have thrust bearings. These are always gummed, rusted, stuck and worse. They can contribute to nasty steering. You cannot feel it when the weight is off the front wheels. You would need to place turntables under the front wheels and check for stiffness with the full weight of the car on the roller tables. An alignment shop is the only way I know of performing such a test, but I'm sure a little ingenuity could come up with another solution.

Good luck Steve. Dive into it and let me know how you're doing. I'm glad to help if I can.

There were very few interchangeable parts, if any, between the different series. There are a few exceptions: The valves, springs and retainers were pretty much the same from series 9 through 11. The Chev. 283 valve works well here.

QUESTION/ANSWER: Interchangeable Parts

January 22, 1998

Although pistons varied quite a bit in compression height and skirt design, they are pretty much interchangeable from series 9 through series 130. In fact, we use a piston developed for the Franklin V/12 in the series 9 through 130 engines.

Otherwise, there was not much interchange. I think the oil pump is the same for 9 - 11. Maybe the fan on Ser. 11 and 12. Flywheel and clutch on Ser. 12 and 13?

As far as the side-draft engine having parts interchangeable with earlier engines, I'm struggling to think of anything other than a few misc. parts.

The Franklin engineering department was one of the best equipped in the industry and continually improved on every component in the car. Very rarely was a particular part in production for more than a few years as it was bound to be improved. In the early 'teens, the models changed whenever the factory made significant changes to the chassis, and improvements were made constantly. The result was the Series 1, introduced in 1912 then Series 2,3,4,5,6,7 and the Series 8, which was introduced in 1915. That's 8 new models in 4 years! The series 9 ran for 6 years, putting an end to the frequent model changes, but factory development never slowed and few early series 9 parts interchange with late Ser. 9 parts.

It is interesting to me that the 1934 Series 194, or 19-B incorporated some significant engine changes over the Series 193, or 19-A. I believe less than 200 193's had been sold before the changes such as a new oil pump with full-flow cooler and new, steel connecting rods. Franklin was finished just a few months after this car was introduced. The writing had to be on the wall during the meager 19-A production, yet money was still being spent to develop new parts. The oil cooler was a purchased item, but the rods required an expensive new forging die. The oil pump required new patterns and castings. These changes were not necessarily required to keep up with the times like a change in body style was required.

I think the money was spent to improve because that's what Franklin always did. Even though the factory was being run by outside management and the engineering department was reduced to just a few men, money was still spent on improvements. The company went into receivership shortly thereafter. It would be interesting to know just what kind of engineering ideas were still floating around that shop when the doors closed.

QUESTION: VALVE OILER 1930 SERIES 14

March 2, 1998

I DON'T THINK MY OILER IS WORKING. I TOOK IT APART AND CLEANED IT , BUT WORKING IT MANUALLY DOESN'T SEEM TO PRODUCE ANY OIL IN THE LINES. IS THERE AN AFTER MARKET OILER AVAILABLE? HOW MUCH OIL IS ENOUGH? SHOULD THE PADS BE DRIPPING WET? WERE THOSE YOUR COMMENTS THAT WE SHOULD USE SYNTHETIC OIL TO GET MAXIMUM LUBING ON THE ROCKER ARMS ? INSTEAD OF MYSTERY OIL ETC.

I LOOKED INTO THE AMPRO OILER IN HEMMINGS HOWEVER IT IS VACUUM OPERATED AND CONNECTS INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. NO WAY TO UTILIZE IT.. MAYBE LIMITED PRESSURE FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD COULD ACTIVATE THE PRESENT SYSTEM.

IF YOU HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON THESE SUBJECTS PLEASE LET ME KNOW.. I HAVE BEEN USING A SQUIRT OIL CAN OCCASIONALLY WHICH IS NOT VERY EFFICIENT , I LOSE TRACK OF THE MILEAGE DRIVEN .THIS ALSO MAKES FOR AN OILY FIREWALL.

ANSWER:VALVE OILER 1930 SERIES 14

If you've got the original 1930 Ser. 14 oiler, fill it about 1/2 way with oil and enjoy looking at it, but do not try to make it work. While it is not too difficult to get them to pump again, metering the oil properly so that each valve felt gets an even quantity of oil is near impossible.

The problem lies in the small metering filters which are contained in the fittings at each valve cage. These filters are made from pumice, tested and graded by the factory for flow. They're stamped with a number, usually 2-5, or something like that. It was intended that a matched set be used on each engine. The pumice filtered the oil and also metered it to steady slow drip. In short order, the pumice clogged and the drip became erratic. The factory called for replacement of the pumice filters every 3,000 miles. I have tried many methods of cleaning the stones, all have failed. I have NEVER gotten a valve oiler to work satisfactorily to the point that I would trust it was doing its job. The 1931-34 engines used engine oil delivered from the crankcase by utilizing a similar system of stones and filters. These are just as, if not even more, difficult to make operate.

I urge all Franklin owners to oil the valves regularly by hand as that's the only way you can be certain they are all getting sufficient oil. On the side-draft, usually once every 400 miles is sufficient. Use a 100% synthetic oil or a two-stroke oil. DO NOT USE Marvel Mystery Oil. You don't need to flood the felt pads, just a small squirt on top of each valve retainer and several squirts on the pads to moisten them well. The pads are fully saturated when you can squeeze them between your thumb and forefinger and oil will just ooze. They should not be dripping wet. If the side-draft engine has gaskets in good condition, the oil blown about the engine should be minimal. It will get a bit messy but if you wipe it down now and then it's not too bad.

I installed a Ampro oiler on a 1934 Franklin at the request of the customer. While I think it did no harm, I also never really saw the benefit of it. It might be nice to have on a fresh engine, but adding a bit of Mystery oil to the gasoline will give the same results.

Regarding the oil thing - The Franklin engines used to stick exhaust valves due to the high operating temperatures of the exhaust valve guides in the downdraft engines and the carbon content of motor oil. The oil would burn and leave carbon deposits on valve stems, building and leading to sticking. Franklin diluted high quality motor oil with kerosene and the problem was reduced. This oil was sold by Franklin as "Opco Oil" and was specified from Series 10(?) to 1930. I do not believe it could have lubricated as well as motor oil, but it did away with the sticking valves.
By 1931 it was apparent that the side-draft engine ran much cooler at the exhaust valve guide and crankcase oil would not lead to sticking valves, so the Opco oil was dropped.

Many Franklin owners realize that Marvel Mystery Oil has many of the same benefits that the Franklin Opco Oil did. Many owners use this oil on their valvetrain. I have found, after several thousand miles in my own Series 12, that Marvel Mystery Oil has poor lubricating qualities on valve stems resulting in premature wear on the stems and guides. In some cases, where stem to guide clearance is tight, the lubricating qualities are so low that valves will begin to stick the instant Marvel oil is applied. I have seen this on several early overhead valve Buicks.
The best oil I have found to do the job is a 100% synthetic oil such as Mobil 1. The weight does not really seem to matter. The key behind synthetic is that it contains no petroleum base stock, so NO deposits are formed on the stems and no sticking results. With the exceptional lubricating properties of synthetic, valvetrain wear is reduced dramatically when switching from a diluted oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil.

QUESTION: REBUILDING A 1928 MASTER CYLINDER

What would you recommend as far as getting a master cylinder rebuilt. I live in NJ and could use a good referral.

ANSWER: REBUILDING A 1928 MASTER CYLINDER

On the '28 Master Cylinder, you can buy a new cup, spring and valve, but not a piston. I don't have the part numbers, but try your local Napa dealer. Bring in the old parts and match them up with new ones.

A good repair requires having the master cylinder sleeved in stainless steel. There are quite a few outfits that do this. Just one is Imperial Machine in Nebraska. Cost is about $65.

QUESTION: SERIES 12 - 1928 OIL PUMP/FILTER

April 3, 1998

Thank you so much for all of you help about the 1928 Model 12A Sedan. That picture was very helpful. I have owned the car since the 1960's and have been a member to the H H Franklin Club for many years. Our restoration is almost complete ( a full restoration job has been done), but I need some help with the oil pump and hook up's. If it is possible, could you send me some diagrams and pictures on how to assemble the oil filter and it's hook up's.

ANSWER: SERIES 12 - 1928 OIL PUMP/FILTER

Perhaps I can help on the oil filter installation.

The original Purolator filter was connected as follows: One oil pump feed line connects to a bulkhead fitting in the crankcase. A 1/4" line runs from this point to the Purolator inlet connection. A larger (3/8"?) line runs from the Purolator outlet and dumps back into the crankcase through another bulkhead fitting.

The pressure relief for this system is built right into the original Purolator top manifold casting. When the oil is cold and/or thick, OR when the filter was clogged, oil would be by-passed directly back to the crankcase.

A more modern, canister filter such as a Napa #1035 is frequently used in place of the original Purolator. Using one of these on a Series 12 or 13 (I paint them black and install a Purolator decal - fools the judges every time) eliminates any oil by-pass feature. I have never had a problem doing so, but I am not so sure I recommend it any longer. It puts a tremendous amount of strain on the oil pump when the oil is cold. I think if I were to do another Ser 12 or 13, I would try to rig up a by-pass system.

If you use the #1035, you can mount it in the original brackets on the firewall. Be sure you set it up so that the inlet is on the bottom and outlet (large line) out the top.

If you have a nice original Purolator, you might consider not running any oil through it at all. Put a good air cleaner on the carb and change the oil often. This is a by-pass oil system anyway so very little of the oil is actually filtered.

QUESTION: 1928 Valve oilier

April 5, 1998

Thanks again for this information, however, I have another question:
When you open the Valve Covers, there is an oil line. Should it be fed by the oil filter. It seems the line has been capped off. Therefore no oil seems to be lubricating the valves.

ANSWER: 1928 Valve oilier

The 12A never had an oiling system connected to the valves. In 1929, a separate valve oilier was installed. It was filled with Franklin Opco Valve Oil and operated by the motion of the car. bumps and jiggles cased a weight to move up and down which ran a ratchet mechanism. After a certain number of "jiggles" the unit tripped and gave a shot of oil into the tubes that were connected to the valve cages.

Some 1928 cars were retro-fitted with the device. it worked well for a while, but clogged lines soon meant trouble for the valvet rain. If your car had one of these oilier, it would have been bolted to the blower housing just in front of the exhaust manifold. Do you have 4 holes there?

At any rate, you should not worry about the line going to the rocker boxes. leave it capped off. DO NOT connect it to the oil filter.

Oil the valve felt pads by hand every 300-400 miles or 2 weeks. Use Two-cycle engine oil or 100% synthetic oil. Avoid regular petroleum based oil or Marvel Mystery Oil.

June 18, 1998

QUESTION: 1929 Series 147 Fabric roof

Do you know of any product that can be used to treat the fabric of a Franklin "hard top" roof? I plan to take my 1930 Model 147 back up to Jersey in August to use in my wedding. The car has not been rained on in nearly 40 years. While the roof appears to be in decent shape, I can't help but think there could be some sort of coating (Saddlesoap, Wax or Rain-X equivalent) I could use.

ANSWER: 1929 Series 147 Fabric roof

On the roof question, I'm really not certain what would be best. I have used "Top Dressing", but not for quite a few years. This stuff was a blck goo that one brushed on the top. I think J.C. Whitney still carries it as well as some of the Model T, A and early V8 Ford suppliers. It worked pretty well on my Series 12 original top.

Other stuff I've used but can no longer find is "Tire Paint". This stuff was sold in spray cans and was simply a rubberized black paint that I used on blackwall tires that had wide whitewalls underneath a thin layer of black rubber (Lester tires). Every time I scrubbed a curb or somehouw abraded the tire, some black rubber would come off and white would show underneath. ANyway, I found this tire paint and loved it. I have used it many times for different applications, but have not been able to locate it for a few years now.

Check the corners and edges - that's where water most likely gets in. Silicone caulk is the only remedy I know in these areas.

Tom Rasmussen

June 18, 1998

QUESTION: Best shine on original Franklin paint

I plan on getting a buffer and try to bring the best shine to the old (original) paint. It is pretty dull, and this will not be the final solution (it will need paint--but I am not ready for that part of the restoration). Are there any products you recommend or anything I should avoid?

ANSWER:Best shine on original Franklin paint

On the paint, you'll want to be very careful of an original finish. The lacquer is likely quite thin after all these years and a power buffer can inflict very serious damage very quickly. Even an experienced person would hesitate to pick up a buffer without some knowledge of the soundness of the paint surface.
If course, it is quite possible the paint is in very good shape and buffing can be undertaken. In such a case, the procedure is fairly simple even if the process is a bit difficult. Start with a machine rubbing compound (I use a PPG DX25??? can't remember right off) - very slow speed on the buffer until most compound is gone then gradually speed up until all is gone. Wash the panel, then use a power polishing compound (I like 3M Finesse-it II), follow the same procedure. Polish edges, corners, and inaccessible areas by hand. Wash the panel again, follow with a glaze - Meguires makes a nice one, I think the consumer one is called #7, also by machine. Clean & wax by hand.

You work one panel at a time, always starting with fairly heavy pressure with the buffer running very slowly. This performs most of the cutting with minimal heat build up. As the compound begines to dry, pick up speed and ease up on pressure. Work a panel back and forth, left to right, then up and down, top to bottom. Always wash the panel well between steps and turn over or replace the buffer pad for each step.

Polishing by hand is much safer, much easier and much slower! The same products and procedures apply, it just takes a ton of work. Keep at it, have plenty of very soft towels and do one piece at a time. A big 147 sedan can easily take 12 - 20 hours to machine polish and 20 - 30 hours to hand polish depending on if you're talking fenders and aprons as well. You must use a good wax, or oxidation begins again quickly. I prefer Meguires products, but there are a great many good waxes as long as you stick with name brands.

A quick run-down, I hope it helps!

Tom Rasmussen

July 1, 1998

QUESTION: Oil and fuel level gauges are operated Hydrostatically

Dear Tom,
thank you very much for your mail. Would I have known, that Frank Hantak would pass my mail on to you, I had contacted you directly: it is indeed my car Thomas Lück is restoring at the moment and I know he is in contact with you, since I gave him your address. Thomas is making good progress with the car and he told me you just were in London an he is getting the parts needed for the engine. Thanks a lot. The connecting rods were really a problem; most people have no idea of making them from aluminum, neither they can imagine having bearings welded inside this material. But this seemed to be solved. I think, you wrote to me in your letter, that the right tail lamp can be made from making a copy from the left one and cutting it into pieces... I have another question concerning the function of the oil an fuel meters: they seem to be connected with the oil reservoir/tank by little tubes - how does the system work? Perhaps Thomas has asked you the same question already...
I am sure either Thomas or me will contact you in future time. Thanks a lot for your help so far

Martin Baehr, Berlin, Germany

ANSWER: oil and fuel level gauges are operated Hydrostatically

Dear Martin,

The connecting rods are really not too difficult to restore. We use a bearing insert from a Toyota and re-machine the connecting rod to accept this insert. I have bearing inserts prepared to send to Thomas, but he said he already had the problem solved. If I can help on this, please let me know or have Thomas contact me.

The oil and fuel level gauges are operated Hydrostatically. They are filled with special hydrostatic fluid manufactured by the King-Seely company in the U.S. These gauges were used by some European manufacturers, notably Rolls-Royce on the Phantom II. They operate by air pressure exerted upon a column of fluid by the rising level of liquid in the gasoline tank or oil pan. They are rather troublesome and suffer from corrosion and decay of the parts, but can be restored successfully.

To make the gauges operate, it is necessary to make certain that the sending units in the gasoline tank and in the oil pan are in good condition. Loose or cracked solder joints need to be repaired on the senders as no leakage of air pressure can be tolerated. New lines are usually installed from the sender to the gauge. The gauge heads in the dashboard are frequently in very poor condition. If the zinc die casting is poor, then you will need replacement parts which are difficult to come by. If the castings are good, then a complete disassembly and cleaning is required. there are brass or copper rods in the unit which act as metering rods and should not be misplaced as they calibrate the unit to read correctly. Once all is in good condition, the gauge is filled with the proper fluid (green for oil and red, of a differing viscosity, for gasoline). If the condition of the components is poor, one can install the fluid only for decorative purposes. I have had good results with fuel gauges, but have not had an operating oil level gauge.

I can supply the fluid and some of the tubing if you wish to give it a go. Just let me know.

I have good word that your pistons are due to be completed within a week or so. I will contact Thomas as soon as they are ready to go.

Let me know if I can help in any other way.

Tom Rasmussen

September 19, 1998

Question: VALVE LUBRICATING PADS

Are there opinions out there whether side-draft valve lubricating pads having tails are better than those without? Will be most interested in answer about "tails" on valve pads - they extend down over the pushrods and bottom at the base of the "walking beam" case where the pushrods enter it.

ANSWER: VALVE LUBRICATING PADS

I'm not thrilled with the "tails" on pads I have seen. I have found that felt balls, lint, what have you, works loose and can get into the pushrod bushing in the top of the tube. They seem like a good idea, but....

QUESTION: VALVEL GUIDE CLEARANCE 1931

Can FAQs let me know what the correct clearance is for the valve guides on the Model 153?

ANSWER: VALVEL GUIDE CLEARANCE 1931

>> 0.0015 - 0.002 for intakes and 0.0035 - 0.004 for exhausts - valve stem to guide clearance
Tom Rasmussen

November 1, 1998

QUESTION: DOES A '32 ENGINE RUN HOTTER THAN A '31

I have another question: I have two side draft engines: a '31 and a '32. They seem to run at very different temperatures. After a five-mile run, for instance, (as preparation for checking valve clearances hot, say), one can
take the bales and valve covers off the '31 with one's bare hands without thinking about it; but with the '32, one must use a rag or paper towel as an insulator, for those things become just too hot to handle. What do you think would cause the difference?

ANSWER: DOES A '32 ENGINE RUN HOTTER THAN A '31
Probably the biggest reason for temperature variations between two engines is carburetion. Running just a bit rich cools an engine a fair amount. Running just a bit lean causes much higher exhaust gas temperatures. Sophisticated test such as an exhaust gas temperature probe or exhaust gas analyzer or CO sensor would show such temperature variations which could indicate mixure differences. Far easier would be to pull the spark plugs and check for color/condition, etc. Are they the same plugs in each engine?

Other factors include valve adjustment, camshaft grind and condition, cylinder/piston ring condition and compression ratio. The 1932 camshaft was of a slightly different grind than the Ser. 15. Quieting ramps were extended. It might be possible that a '31 cam with clearances set loose will run cooler than a '32 cam set tight. I would certainly look at carb and ignition timing before I would worry about cam & valve problems. Of course cooling system leaks can also contribute.

Tom Rasmussen

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