The H. H. Franklin Club, Inc.

The H. H. Franklin Club publishes the information listed in Replacement Parts solely as a convenience to its members. No endorsement is made by the Club or Regions, no claim or warranty is made as to the accuracy of any of this information. No responsibility is assumed for any transactions resulting form this information. Most parts are from members that work on Franklins every day.

Replacement Parts for your Franklin

WHAT BETTER WAY OF HELPING A FELLOW CLUB MEMBER


If you have a replacement part that can be purchased
at an auto parts store or from a company manufacturing
the part, please e-mail us with all the information. Give us the
part number, name of the part, name of the store or manufacture,
what the part fits and any other information that would help other
club members find the part.

Please NOTE:
Bob Harrison is the Projects manager for the H H Franklin Club
please contact him for any information on club items
Bob Harrison
59 Reuben LN.
Exeter, RI 02822-3124
401-667-0214
hfranklin32@verizon.net

Last update

December 28, 2008


See below Club Projects

December 28, 2008

High Speed Gears for S-12 through S-19 (except S-17 & 18) This is the 4th run, over 100 sets sold, cruise at 60 MPH. We are ready to place the order for these 3.92-1 ring and pinion gear sets. If you have signed up in the past you should get an order form in the mail by the end of the year. If not please contact me for questions and ordering information. Price will be $968.00, ½ deposit at time of order, app. 6 months delivery. Jeff Hasslen, 763-441-7815 evenings and weekends or e-mail: jhasslen@gmail.com

August 4, 2008

This came from Allan Franklin, he hopes it will help others with repaires to Franklin brake system.

Brake Parts used for my 1931 Franklin Automobile, Series 152
Should be the same for the brakes on the following:
1930 Series 145
1930 Series 147
1932 Series 151
1931 Series 152
1931 Series 153
1932 Series 163
1932 Series 164
1933 Series 193
19
34 Series 194

3 each Brake Hoses 28-30 # T52A (male threads....3 @ $19.50 ea. ..........$ 58.50
Source: Roberts Motor Parts (800) 231-31870 Gary (Shipping $10.00)
1 each Master Cylinder Rebuilt Kit #UP-1 ...............................................$14.80

Source: NAPA
2 each 1 3/8" Front Wheel Cylinders # WC-1430 ....2 @ $78.69 ea..............$157.37
2 each 1 1/4" Rear Wheel Cylinders # WC-695 ....... 2 @ $52.79 ea.............$105.58
(Stock front wheel cylinders use 1 1/4" but 1 3/8" larger ones
can be used by filling out the two mounting holes.)
4 each Bleeder Screws # F-11410 ........................4 @ $1.33.......................$6.75
3 each Master Cylinders Washers # F-17...............(pack of 10) ....................$3.80
4 each Banjo Bolt Copper Washers # F-602 ..........(pack of 10).................... $4.60
4 each Copper Washers # F-603............................(pack of 10) ....................$4.60
Source: Rock Auto (866) 762-5288 Jeff
Notes: Use Loctight on Master Cylinder washers
Stoplight Switch: Echlin # SL-113 See Harley Davidson dealer?
Bleed Brakes, Start furthest from the master cylinder.

(In this order: left rear, right rear, right front, left front)
After cleaning out the brake lines, blowing air and brake cleaner thru the lines,
I elected to use Dot 5 Brake Fluid.

July 20, 2008

Franklin Club Projects 9/26/08

Contact for information or to order:

Bob Harrison

59 Reuben Brown Lane

Exeter, RI 02822

Cell: 401-269-9122

Home: 401-667-0214

Prices listed do not include shipping.

FCP-1 1930 Ser. 147 outer Tail Light Lens, clear glass.

Special sale price: $5.00ea.

FCP-2 Red plastic inner lens for use with FCP-1 $5.00ea.

FCP-3 1928 on Swing out Windshield Weather Seal $25.00ea.

FCP-3.2 Series 17 Windshield Weather Seal $40.00ea.

FCP-4 1928 to series 151 Windshield Hinge Cover $2.00ea.

FCP-5 Series 10 to 130 Spark Plug Escutcheons (set of 6) $65.00/set.

FCP-6 1930 on Side draft motor. Pushrod Set of 12 $150.00/12

These are direct replacement hollow push rods with hardened solid ends.

FCP-7 12” Twilite Head Light Lens out of stock

FCP-8 Cowl vent seal ( cut to your length ) $0.25 /inch

FCP-9 Hood Door Pulls for Side draft hoods 1931-1934 $10.00ea.

Bronze castings that require Chrome Plating.

FCP-10 1929-1932 Brake Drums for cars with wire wheels or de-mountable wood wheel. Will require riveting to your hubs and turned to finish size. Include rivets and detailed instructions.

Note: For safety reasons these will be sold only in sets of 2.

$75.00 ea.

December 23, 2007

REPRODUCED PARTS for a 1929, series 13, 135 sedan. THROTTLE: Lost wax casting in bronze from original zinc die cast part. Finished and nickel plated; ready to drop in. Excellent fit. $180.00 Plus $10.00 for packing, postage, and insurance

GRILL CAP: Lost wax casting in bronze from original zinc die cast part. Finished and chrome plated over nickel plating. Note it is the one with the Herringbone decoration around the perimeter and measures 3 1/2" in diameter. Shrinkage is less than 1/16" diameter from the original pot metal piece. Some very, very small pits hardly seen at arms length. Special attention to herringbone detail so to duplicate original as accurately as possible. On underside one can see the original factory number in the fine detail and the stud has been drilled and tapped to 5/16th x 18, square and straight to the piece. $400.00 Plus $10.00 for packing, postage, and insurance

These prices reflect cost only and no profit is realized. Plaster molds, rubber molds, casting, finishing to auto quality plating adds up fast, but I was very pleased with the results. These parts will be at the 2008 Trek
James Roberts email at, lrclock11@yahoo.com or call at 978-658-4339 voice mail there
1/08

*************************************

Just to advise you, I did receive an e-mail from Paul Fitz suggesting that I contact Ben Hotchkiss as someone who could rebuild my vacuum tank for my 26 S-11. I left approximately 7 messages and no one ever called back. I then went to Hemmings Motor News and found Wallace Deck. I thought I saw in one of the Franklin Service Bulletin’s that he had passed away. But he is alive and well. He lives in Ridge Farm, Illinois but lives in Florida for three months during the winter. The address in Illinois is Wallace Deck, PO Box 380, Ridge Farm, IL 61870. Phone number is 217-247-2162. Address in Florida is 2041 Thompson Nursery Road, Lot 40, Lake Wales, FL 33859. Phone number (cell?) is 217-260-0300. He has repaired my vacuum tank, tested it and is shipping it back. Approx $100.00. He did state that the top may have to be replaced but he would give me credit for it. He said there is a company in Australia that makes them. I’ll let you know how it work once I install it. Approximately $19.00 and 4 days to ship the tank to Florida by UPS Ground. If anyone else needs to have a vacuum tank rebuilt there is still someone who does it. Thank you again for your assistance earlier.

Chuck MacDonald

*********************************

1929 Franklin right hand tail light stanchions.
New castings, machined, ready to paint.
$107.00 each, shipping extra.
Contact George Staley
Dublin Rd.
De Ruyter, NY 13052-9201
315-852-6209

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Seems we went round searching all the auto parts stores for these about a year ago. This new manufacture oil filter just arrived from Roberts Motor Parts. Their part number T45.

While they are not the long canister type that was used originally, these are the same 4-1/8 inch outside diameter as fits the original oil filter brackets, with 1/8 national pipe thread on each end marked "in" and "out". 5-7/8 inch long overall.

Some black paint and a repro Purolater decal from the California Classic Car Club guys and it's close.

For those who don't know, they are the same people we get the brake hoses from ( for 28-34 Franklins use number T52A see below for picture of the hose)

Roberts Motor Parts
17 Prospect St.
West Newbury, Ma. 01985
978-363-5407
www.robertsmotorparts.com

Thought you'd be interested.
Paul Fitz.

July 31, 2005

Bob Harrison, Projects manager,needs your reply on the projected below asap, thank you

  1. Franklin Club Projects listed 7/31/05
    New Sidedraft Motor Pushrods 1930 - 1934

    The Franklin Club Projects now has sets of new pushrod for the Franklin 6 cylinder sidedraft motor. These new pushrod are custom made for our Club by one of the top makers of pushrods for racing, aircraft, and antique motors in the USA .

    They are,
    1. The same lengths as the original Franklin pushrods were.

    2. Modern construction of hollow tube with pressed in solid top and bottom ends, heat treated and then centerless ground. In addition, the ends, which are hardened to 60-62 RC, are long enough so that they completely extend through the pushrod tube bushings, thus reducing pushrod side wear (see picture).

    3. All rod have a narrow band of metal around the top. This is to replace the two dimples used in the originals to prevent the rods from falling through the pushrod tube bushings during removal, or installation of the valve cages.

    4. The rod ends are ground flat. Since these are externally just like the originals, no need to modify the tappet and rocker arm adjusting screw to a ball and socket type.

    5. These new pushrods are approximately 2 ounces lighter than original Franklin pushrods.

    Sold in sets consisting of six intake, and six exhaust pushrods.
    Price is $150.00 per set of 12, plus cost of shipping.

    To order, contact me by one of the following methods.

    Bob Harrison
    59 Reuben LN.
    Exeter, RI 02822-3124
    401-667-0214
    hfranklin32@verizon.net

    Pushrod sets for the earlier downdraft motors are in development, watch for their announcement.

    Thank you.
    see Bob Harrison

  2. Announcement of a new H.H. Franklin Club project.

    Up-Date January 10, 2005
    Dear Mr. Fitzpatrick,

    Concerning your proposed project to produce Franklin brake drums, I just wanted to let you know that I would be interested in a set for my 1930 145 that has wire wheels. Please add me to your list of potential buyers.

    Also, I am about ready to start the restoration of my 1928 12B. I have a set of 1928 wire wheels that I intend to install and would likely want a set of drums for it too. Your article indicates there could be a problem with your drums fitting 1928 wire wheels. What is this problem?

    On a different note, have you considered cast iron? Some years ago I restored a Model A Ford and installed the cast iron drums that are now available for these cars. The improvement in braking with cast iron was quite noticeable. Obviously, I have never had the chance to compare the braking to new pressed steel drums, but I believe that the difference in the coefficient of friction between the liner and cast iron over steel may be of significance. The cost of a pattern and castings should be much cheaper than a die and stamping. I don’t know the difference in machining time, and I think there would have to be some dimensional changes to compensate for the differing material strengths, but the tooling cost would be much cheaper for cast iron than steel stampings.

    Sincerely,
    Colin Hiley
    Dear Mr. Hiley,

    Thank you for responding to the website inquiry. You name is on the list.

    The problem with the 28 wire wheel drums is that they are stamped quite a bit deeper in the center then any of the other Franklin brake drums. All the other drum variations can be made from the same stamping. They only vary as far as the number of mounting holes and size of the center hole. The cost of making and or modifying the die to do such a drum was not feasible at this time. We're still kicking around ideas, so hopefully there will be drums for your '28.

    I'm aware of the cast iron drums available for Fords. A number of people have e-mailed telling me about them. Unfortunately it's not an apples to apples comparison . The Fords are a much lighter car and the drums are much smaller. Size is a factor.

    There are a number of reasons why the decision was made to have the drums stamped in steel.

    1. First of which is........ it's in keeping with the second law of restoration, " Thou shalt keep it original whenever possible". I realize that means more to some then others, but it does count !

    2. Cast iron? Doesn't go well with number #1. I had originally leaned toward this, but as I found out more, I believe it is not as good a choice for Franklin's as for some cars. I think Franklin came to similar conclusions. As you may know, cast iron drums were available when Franklin was designing these cars. They designed the system to work well with the steel drums. I contacted a company that specializes in making cast iron drums in the size range Franklin used. Yes, they can be made, and yes they would be less expensive....... but! Because of strength considerations, to avoid the chance of drums cracking from the outward pressure of the brake shoes during a panic stop, cast iron drums have to be a lot thicker, including the mounting face. This would make them MUCH heavier. This added thickness could also cause possible clearance problems in a number of places. Even if the thicker cast iron were not a clearance problem with the hub or rims, or cause problems with bearings due to a change in wheel offset, with the original steel drums the lug bolts grab with only the threads at the very end of the bolt. Minimum would be the added cost to have sets of the several different type and length lug bolts made in longer lengths. So far cast iron drums added more questions then it answered and still doesn't meet #1.

    3. Also looked into was .......... cast aluminum machined with a pressed in cast iron liner....expensive and not in keeping with #1!

    4. A bit more in keeping with #1. Some cars at that time used a compromise called "centrifuse" drums. Jeff Hasslen tells me the Franklin V12's and the Olympics (smaller drum) used them. Basically they are a stamped steel face plate which has a lip imbedded into a cast iron outer band during the casting process. Much more expensive then an all cast iron drum, and while not as heavy, still heavier then just a steel drum.

    5. After checking into all these variations of cast iron drums, there is still one question. Is there really that much better stopping with cast iron compared to the original mild steel drums? Over the years, I've had the chance to drive and compare a lot of cars from that era that use brake drums made of cast iron (Pierce-Arrows), all steel (Franklins), and also aluminum with cast iron liners and a brake boost servo system (Hispano Suisas). I don't see that much advantage to cast iron drums if the original system was well designed. Franklin systems are well designed, just rarely done right.

    The Franklin system does allow for one improvement. The drum's lining contact area is almost 2.25 inches wide. For many years now I and a few others, have been using 2 inch wide lining instead of the original 1-3/4 inch wide. Remember I said "size does matter", and with brake systems, increasing the brake shoe surface area can make a big difference. Also, like steel, cast iron drums are not immune to brake fade. A Franklin hydraulic brake system, with the right type of 2 inch linings, properly fitted/adjusted, and using good drums, it's doesn't take a lot to lock up and skid all four wheels on dry pavement. No fading on long down hill stretches either. When done properly, I see no advantage to a system using cast iron drums vs steel drums as far as stopping ability or reducing brake fade.

    6. Another advantage of steel compared to cast iron is the steel drums give much longer service life. Both drum and linings. If not abused and the correct lining is used, steel drums will last for a life time and then some.

    Some members got to see that at a tech session at last years Franklin Trek. I got the chance to inspect a front drum and set of linings that I had installed many years ago. There was no sign of drum wear, and the linings were very close to the thickness of when I installed them. The owner checked his log book and found that he had put about 40,000 miles on the car since I did that brake job. Seeing how much lining is left above the rivet heads, I'm sure there are many tens of thousands of miles left on those linings. Based on past experience, I doubt they would have lasted that long with cast iron drums.

    I hope you don't take any offence with my repeated use of the word "properly". In all the years I've been doing brake jobs I've seen that most of the poor stopping owners experience is not because of the design of the system, but usually because of the lack of knowledge on the part of whoever worked on the brake system. And before you ask me for all my brake rebuilding/adjusting secrets.......know that I'm working on an article about rebuilding brake systems that will appear in a future Air Cooled News.

    Again, thanks.
    Paul Fitz.

    Here is a copy of the e-mail and six digital pictures, I sent to the webmaster at the Packard Club website. Hopefully it will be forwarded to their tech member for consideration.

    I'm sending the same letter/pictures, with the appropriate club name, cut and pasted in where this one says "Packard", to other clubs of cars that may have used brake drums similar to Franklin. I hope to get feed back in time for the Feb. board meeting.

    The following list is from a period brake repair book I have of cars that used Wagner Lockheed two shoe internal brakes; Auburn, Blackhawk, Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, du Pont, Elcar, Gardner, Graham-Paige, Jordan, Kissel, Peerless, Plymouth, Reo, Stutz, Velie. If anyone has any info about brake drums that were used on these makes, please contact me.

    A great holiday season to all.
    Paul Fitz.


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: airiscool
    To: PACwebmaster@packardclub.org
    Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 12:39 PM
    Subject: Re. New brake drums


    Dear Sir,

    My name is Paul Fitzpatrick.

    I am the club projects manager for the H.H. Franklin Club. We are working on having reproduction brake drums made and I'm told that Packard's of this vintage may have used similar size drums. We have a company that can stamp out new steel drums of modern material, a bit thicker then original so as to have less tendency for brake fade, with the appropriate size and placement of center, mounting, and lug bolt holes.

    As you may know, starting in 1928, until their demise in '34, Franklin (as well as other autos of the time) used Wagner Lockheed four wheel hydraulic brake systems. They used both Kelsey Hayes and Motor Wheel Corp. wood and wire wheels. According to Franklin factory drawings, these same wheel companies provided the 7 gauge thick, 14 inch I.D. x 2.250 inch wide (shoe area) stamped steel brake drums for use with the Wagner Lockheed supplied backing plates, and 2 inch wide brake shoes. These drums are 16 inch O.D. at the drum's back side, outer flanged edge.

    We are preparing to have a run made of sets of four drums, ready to be installed on hubs. I was wondering if there are any of your members who would be interested in sets of these steel drums, if they are similar to what Packard used. As mentioned above, we have factory drawings of these brake drums that have survived from Franklin. Is there any such information in your club's archives to see just how similar Packard brake drums are?

    As a preliminary aid in seeing how similar Packard drums may be, I've attacked digital pictures of some of the Motor Wheel Corp. brake drums, shoes and backing plate, plus their wheels as used on Franklins.

    Thanking you in advance,

    Paul Fitzpatrick
    H.H.Franklin Club




    Below was written in October
    As many of you may know, good brake drums for 1928 and later cars are getting hard to find. I'm trying to see how much interest there is for having new brake drums made as a Club project. At this time, we have a preliminary estimate to have a run of new steel brake drums stamped from stronger, modern steel. So far, it looks very "do-able". We're in the process of "refining" numbers as we learn more about the quantities needed and the various differences in drums, model to model, and year to year. Most importantly, how much interest is out there?

    What we know so far............

    Cost,
    Again just preliminary, but........
    We're hoping the cost will be in the range of $450.00 to $500.00, plus the cost of shipping and handling, for a set of four (4) new drums, with rivets, ready to be riveted to your original brake drum hubs. They may be sold as a set of two drums for slightly more, but for safety reasons, they should be used in pairs on the same axle, so they won't be sold just one drum at a time.

    Application,
    What we know so far is that 1928 and '29 drums vary quite a bit, year to year, depending on if they were used with wood or wire wheels. According to the factory drawings, several different suppliers made wheels for Franklin. It seems they also made the brake drums to go with those wheels. One drawing shows the drum used with "artillery" type (just the tire and rim come off) wheels being used from '28 into '30, but we know it was used on 31's too. Starting in 1929, as "special equipment"( for wire wheels) and there after, all "demountable wood" ( tire, rim and spokes come off), and wire wheels seem to use the same drum. How late in production that drum was used remains yet to be found. I know from personal experience that these same drums were used with both the demountable wood and wire wheels in 1930, '31 and '32. Possibly for later cars??? So what we have is two drums (artillery and demountable wood/wire style wheels) will cover all but '28 wire wheels. Having the stamping die made is expensive. In an effort to keep cost per drum down, we are hoping to come up with a solution so that one stamping die will cover as many types of drums/wheels as possible. Otherwise a separate die would have to be made for that particular drum shape for that year and wheel type. That would drive the cost per drum up because each stamping die is many thousands of dollars to have made.

    Franklin used Kelsey Hayes Corp, Motor Wheel Corp and possibly Bimel Spoke and Auto Wheel Co. brake drums. All of these drums are 16 inch outside diameter at the flange, with a 14 inch inside diameter by approximately 2.25 inch wide at the shoe contact area. If anyone knows of any other make of car that used drums with these same dimensions, besides Franklin, please let me know. The more brake drums the Club can have produced and sell, the better it will be for our Club members to get a reasonable price on new brake drums.

    Installation on hubs,
    I'm also looking into the possibility of providing a service that will, remove your original drums, rivet on and true up the new drums to your hubs, for an additional charge.

    Depending on response, and what years of cars we find we can supply drums for, this may be only a run of 50 - 100 sets. That number can be easily increased before we start. Once the first run is sold off, any subsequent runs will cost more. Be sure to let me know if your interested and I will put your name on the list I've started.. Updates will be posted on the Club's website at http://www.franklincar.org/

    If your interested in, have any info to contribute, or questions concerning this project, please contact me.
    Bob Harrison
    59 Reuben LN.
    Exeter, RI 02822-3124
    401-667-0214
    hfranklin32@verizon.net

    update: An update on where the brake drum project is now. 10/19/04

    Franklin Factory blue prints have been received by the machine shop and some minor details yet to be worked out. I'm assured by the machine shop that this project is very do-able. They have all the equipment needed to produce a brake drum that is stronger, and more precisely made then the originals were. I already have a preliminary written estimate for making the stamping die, plus the cost per drum at several different quantities levels that can be ordered. They have drawings for, and can make all variations of brake drums used by Franklin from 1928 series 12A, to '32 Airmen (possably others, if I can get info to confirm). But, there are minimum numbers that need to be produced to keep costs per set reasonable. The more drums that we can initially order, the less the drums will cost.

    Thanks,
    Paul
  3. Fuel pumps and rebuild kits for your Franklin can still available at: Antique Auto Parts Cellar check out the web site: http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm
  4. Reproducing hood door trims made of 3/8 brass pin bead. Correct in size and shape. Ready for plating when you get them. These were a FRANKLIN accessory that sets the hood off nicely. Contact Mike West at mwest729@aol.com For price and delivery.
  5. I have a source for copper brake tubing for listing on the web site. It matches the original copper used on Franklin hydraulic brake systems in that it is designed, tested and rated for use in modern brake systems.

    As has been said many times in the past and bears repeating here..... "refrigeration copper tubing" should NOT be used in brake systems. It is NOT meant to take the working pressures of even an old low pressure brake system like Franklins have. Refrigeration copper tubing is TOO SOFT for that application. The burst strength of soft copper is too close to the maximum working pressures that a Franklin brake system can generate. This tubing I am listing is about 8 times stronger than the same sized tubing in soft copper. Well above what a Franklin brake system has to deal with and like originally intended by Franklin, has the added benefit of no worries about corrosion.

    This material is very nice to work with and with a simple flaring tool, is easy to duplicate the single flair connections that Franklin used. It is also easy to form to fit into the chassis. I'm including by attachment, pictures from of a batch I just received for installation on some of my customers cars. The name of the company is;

    Automec Equipment and Parts Limited
    36 Ballmoor
    Buckingham Industrial Park,
    Buckingham,MK18 1RQ
    Phone, 01280 822818 or 823117
    Fax, 01280 823140
    E-mail info@automec.co.uk
    www.automec.co.uk


    The Automec people are very nice to deal with. E-mailed questions were answered very promptly . Fast, courteous service. They also carry all the tools necessary for forming and installing tubing for just about any type of application, all of which can be seen on their website listed above

    The tubing comes in 25 foot rolls. All years of Franklins will use almost all of a 25 foot roll of 1/4 inch tubing, . Order number for the 1/4 inch od tubing is, HCP014.

    The 5/16 inch od tubing that is needed for the cross over line from the master cylinder to the tee fitting on the passenger side of the chassis, and the reservoir line on '30 and later cars is, HCP516. Only three feet of the 5/16 is needed for '28 and '29.

    1930 and later cars need two, three foot pieces (6 feet total) of the 5/16. One for the cross over line and one to the brake fluid reservoir can on the firewall. If anyone needs the 5/16 and does not want to order a whole 25 foot roll of 5/16, I will sell it by the foot. They can reach me at;

    607-674-9432
    airiscool@clarityconnect.com

    Thanks
    Paul Fitzpartick
  6. BRAKE HOSES for all Franklins, Roberts Motor Parts, Inc., 17 Prospect Street, West Newbury, MA 01985 phone 978.363.5407 or 800.231.3180 they also have a web site www.robertsmotorparts.com - The same hoses fit most Chrysler cars of the later 20's and early 30's. This company sells Chrysler parts. The cost is $19.50 ( 1999), thanks for the listing. Sincerely, GaryRoberts Jr.

  7. WINDOW FRAMES for Franklins from 1925 to 1934 - They manufacture the correct channels for front frame as well as the frames for the convertible coupes. The company is: N/C Industries Antique Auto Parts, P.O. Box 254, 301 S. Thomas Ave., Sayre, PA 18840 - Talk with Kevin Brown - Phone 570.888.6216 e-mail kdb@cyber-quest.com

  8. RUNNINGBOARD MOULDINGS - L & L Auto Trim has runningboard moldings for 1927, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 and 1933 Franklins. Plus some earlier moldings. Call or write your needs. L&L Antique Auto Trim, Gerald Landoll, 403 Spruce, P.O. Box 177, Pierce City, MO. 65723 Phone 417.476.2871

  9. SPARK PLUGS - The 1928 12A has a 7/8" thread and uses a Champion W18. The numbers recently changed and I think the new number is 518, but you should ask for the W18 first. Franklin switched to an 18mm threaded plug for the 12B. This uses a champion D16, or current number is 516. I have seen a couple 12-A's with Series 130 cylinders, so make certain yours has the original large plug in it. Most good-sized auto parts stores stock the plugs. If they don't have them in stock, they can surely order them.

  10. Series 14 and Chev Distributors AT THE "BIG A" CHAIN OF PARTS HOUSE, WHICH SELL STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS. CONDENSER = 32 - 821, ROTOR = 34 - 13, POINTS = 31 - 30, CAP = 33 - 22 MAYBE THIS CAN HELP SOMEONE ELSE . I APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP I HAVE GOTTEN IN THE PAST . Don't worry about the different Chev. distributor model numbers - they all use the same points, condenser, cap and rotor and will fit your Series 14. Just tell your parts house you want the parts for a '57 Chev, and you'll get the right stuff.

  11. 1928 MASTER CYLINDER As a result of the publication of Website FAQ's in the Franklin Service Station, Paul Fitzpatrick says that, in answer to the question of "Rebuilding a 1928 Master Cylinder", a re-building kit for that master cylinder, including piston, can be furnished by Tom Hannaford, Antique Auto Parts Cellar, P. O. Box 3, South Weymouth, MA 02190. Phone 781-335-1579. Kit would be same for '29 car as well.

  12. Reproduction of distributor caps - I would like to share some information on the lead that I was provided though the Technical Q & A. You may want to add a Post Scriptum.
    Charles Bouteiller has reproduced the distributor caps for the Atwater Kent Model RA and others. For the cap: $100 Rotor $35 Points $35 His Phone is 413-528-2815, Monterey Rd, Great Barrington,
    MA 01230 During the Winter, he can be reached at 352-793-9122, C.O. Sunter Oaks RV Park, 4602- County Road 673, Bushnell, FL 53513-8358
  13. Bill Williams (603-525-3532) makes data plates and has made some for Franklin. I've only purchased the new crankhole covers from him (which double as V/12 valve cover medallions) Also has Delco starter & generator tags.
  14. So. Cal region of the CCCA (P.O. Box 3742 Orange, CA 92857 - send SASE) has lots of plates as well, including pre 1912 Franklin plates, but none later. Also has Delco starter & generator tags.

  15. You can buy a firewall data plate from Jeff Hasslen in Minnesota.

  16. The Franklin manual states: "Use the two PILOTS for lining up the bolts" when changing a wheel and tire. Pictured here are the NEW PILOTS to make your tire changing easier. Order yours today, the set pictured are 9/16" - 18 thread, check yours before ordering. One set of 2 $15.00 plus postage of $1.50 per set. Make your check for $16.50 payable to: Richard Gaskill and mail it to: 14411 Ramblewood, Livonia, MI 48154-5336. Should you have any questions, e-mail them to: rgaskill@twmi.rr.com

  17. Source for A.K. Type RA Dist. Caps - Obtain from:

    C.Bouteiller, Monterey Road, Gt. Barrington, Mass 01230 - 413-528-2815

    New reproductions for Series 11-A. Mr. Bouteiller usually has spaces at
    Fall Carlisle and Fall Hershey. Also, last year he had a display at the
    Charlotte Flea Market early April. He also can supply the correct rotors
    and point sets. - Sam Kern - Re: No 91 Franklin Service Station Page 3

  18. The latest Club project is FCP-5 which is the Ser. 10 - Ser. 130 , "high tension wire rubber escutcheons". Franklin drawing # 39924.

    As you know, they fill the gap between the high tension wire loom and the underside of the air hood. These are a new run of copies of the original part, made of high temp rubber by Steel Rubber Prod. using the mould that was generously donated to the Club by Emmett Hood.

    The cost per set of six is $50.00 which includes shipping and insurance.

    I am including Franklin drawing numbers and "part names" for parts that we are selling as an aid to Members. I should have done this before but lacked some of the numbers. Here they are if you can fit them in the ad. If not don't worry about it, as no one has complained about their not being in so far.
    FCP- 1 # 88129 - 1930 ser. 147 Tail light door assembly white glass.

    FCP- 1 # 88129 - 1930 ser. 147 Tail light door assembly clear glass.
    Special price reduction to clear out surplus inventory and get spares into the hands of those that can use them.
    Clearance price of $7.50 including shipping.
    Contact Bob Harrison
    - Nov 15, 2006


    FCP- 2 #88135 - 1930 ser. 147 Tail light door assembly bulb shield ( red plastic disc only).

    FCP- 3 #32X10 - 1928 and later Windshield weather strip rubber having the rubber groove on the INSIDE of the windshield frame. 7 foot long.

    FCP- 3.2 Ser. 17 12 cyl. and posably others. same as FPC- 3 but 11 foot long. (no drawing number available at this time).
    FCP- 4 Windshield hinge weather seal - closed cars. There is no listing of this part in parts books, but it is used on all piano style
    windshield hinges. ( Ser. 12 and earlier(?) - Ser. 152. ( F.Y.I. It is a strip of Cobra grain top material 2- 1/2" X 52" . I have, since we started selling these, found evidence that convertables(all???) used Russet Brown leather that matched the leather interior of the car). No price changes for these at this time.

    If you have any questions please contact me.
    Bob Harrison
    59 Reuben LN.
    Exeter, RI 02822-3124
    401-667-0214
    hfranklin32@cox.net

    Allfanow, Paul Fitz.

    Please don't forget THE FRANKLIN STORE - They have 1930 S 147 tail light lens clear glass $55.00 w/S&H - 1930 S 147 tail light red inner lens $7.50 w/S&H - 1928 and later swing out front window seal (soft) except roadster and sport touring $27.50 w/S&H - Same seal but for 12 cylinder cars $45.00 w/S&H - Front windshield piano hinge cover seal 52" long $4.00 w/S&H - Make checks payable to H. H. Franklin Club, send orders to:
    Bob Harrison
    59 Reuben LN.
    Exeter, RI 02822-3124
    401-667-0214
    hfranklin32@cox.net


  19. Having recently had the top end of my engine rebuilt, it was pointed out to
    me that I needed to get a "real" air filter to protect the rings. My
    research into a filter that would fit for "drivers" of their cars identified
    a K&N manufactured filter that will fit the neck of the U-3 Stromberg
    carburetor on cross-draft engines. The filters were developed for off-road
    racing and are well known in street rod circles. It is expensive
    (relatively) but is a permanant type that can be washed out and reused. The
    manufacturers number is : RU - 3560 and it is sold in NAPA parts stores.
  20. LAST CHANCE FOR HIGH SPEED GEAR SETS: 3:92 Rear axle ratio, S-12-19 (exc 17 and 18) Need a few more orders for the 4th run, over 100 sets sold so far. It is unlikely these will be make again for a few years. Approx. cost $830.00/set. Jeff Hasslen, 13311 95th St. NE, Elk River, MN 55330 Telephone 763-441-7815
  21. Items for Franklins - Patterns

    Some are in stock others 6 to 8 weeks delivery. All items are stainless castings. Please check with Jere Verdone. 717-949-3341 - fax 717-949-2782 - 31 Stricklerstown Loop Rd., Newnamstown, PA 17073

    1913 - Windshield wing nut - 50.00
    1920 - Hood lion ornament - 150.00
    round bumper medallion - 50.00
    1922 - Window crank - 60.00
    Window crank escutcheon - 35.00
    1926 - Standing lion ornament - 125.00
    1928 - Inside door handle - 70.00
    Window crank - 60.00
    Fender lite base - 75.00
    1929 - Center front bumper separator - 65.00
    Model 130 fender lite base - 75.00
    Model 135-37 Fender lite base - 75.00
    135-37 Accel quadrant lever - 45.00
    Plain grill shell cap - 45.00
    Rumble seat "T" handle - 80.00
    Robe rail bracket - 45.00
    Bumper separator back plate - 35.00
    Hood latch top - 45.00
    O/S door handle - 80.00
    Window crank - 60.00
    I/S door pull - 45.00
    Ignition/coil casting - 85.00
    Quarter window "T" handle - 55.00
    Assist strap bracket - 40.00
    Curved top thumb nut - 30.00
    1930 - Window crank - 60.00
    Window crank - driver door - 60.00
    O/S door handle - 80.00
    Fender lite base - 75.00
    Crank hole cover - 45.00
    Lower hood hold-down clip - 35.00
    Airplane bumper medallion - 55.00
    Loop door pull - 50.00
    Bumper end bolt - 35.00
    Rumble seat "T" handle - 80.00
    Grill shell (Bird) - 75.00
    O/S escutcheon - 30.00
    1931 - O/S door handle - 80.00
    Conv top hold down & latch 2 - 85.00
    Front rect. Bumper medallion - 65.00
    1932 - Window crank - 60.00
    I/S door handle - 70.00
    Hood hold-down clip - 25.00
    Oval bumper medallion - 65.00
    I/S visor bracket - 55.00
    Hood vent hooks - 25.00
    Bumper end bolts - 35.00
    Fender lite base - 75.00
    1933 - Quadrant levers 2 - 130.00
    Door hinge mirror mount - 70.00
    1934 - Foot rest bracket - 45.00

  22. Two NEW Franklin Items

    It is a Spark coil and ignition instrument water shield for the Franklin
    models ranging from 10A-B to 11A-B. The part number in the catalog is
    #R-3383 I found with some research, a small shield piece still intact, plans
    from the club (thanks to Jeff Haslen), some patience and help from a
    good friend of mine. If anybody has an original of these I would be very
    interested to find out... In any case if there is an interest, I could make a short production.
    These would range in price around $60 to $80 and would be a great
    complement to the High Tension Rubber Escutcheons part # R-3409
    escutcheon sold by the Club ( Paul Fitzpatrick). I will bring some
    samples to the Trek.
    - - -
    A 11A plate reproduction. ( Sample of the whole and part of the finish art work). With John Hasslen support I have enlarged an original plate digitally 100 times, corrected letters and lines before reducing again to true scale.
    I am ready to undertake a run which will cost U$30 to $40 a plate, holes included on the correct aluminum thickness and finish (mirror). I need a serious show of interest before undertaking...if possible before the Trek.
    E-Mail audette@sympatico.ca - Andre Audette, 23 Farnham Cr., Ottawa, ON, K1K 0G1., CANADA
    Phone - 613-746-0047

  23. Brass bolts at the end of the spring for a 1910 Franklin. They ARE marked "oil" They were machined from an original botl. The cost will be $20.00 each, or less for a set of 8. Ian C. McLeod, phone 517-347-4100 Fax 517-347-4100 E-Mail mcldmyn@attbi.com

  24. Stoplight switch replacement on my '32 Airman that works is NAPA ECHLIN SL113
    Replacement needed because old one left stoplights on all the time. Magic word to NAPA counterman was "Chrysler" although "Franklin" was used.

  25. New Holland Industrial Equipment sell `s an EP Gear Grease part #9821006 that is equal to the 600 W Gear oil used in most older car`s and truck`s. The best way is to get on the internet and type in New Holland Industrial Equipment then click on Search. This will bring up there web page and tell you of a dealer nearest you.

  26. Another supplier of reproduction parts for Franklin's,They reproduce many of the wiring harnesses and carry additional wiring supplies used in Franklin's. They also have the measurements to add the accessory right tail light to the harness for 1930, 31.
    Rhode Island Wiring
    567 Liberty Lane
    P.O. Box 434
    West Kingston, RI 02892
    800-241-1955
    e-mail, info@riwire.com - Their website www.riwire.com

  27. All wood steering wheels manufactured by Snyder's Woodcraft, 618 South Spruce St. Nazareth, PA 18064 phone (home) 610-759-4642 or (work) 610-759-4276. He is a Franklin Club member. If you did not see them at the Trek ask someone that was there, they were beautiful.

  28. Franklin Parts by Hasslen

    Timing Chains - Series 10 through Series 18
    Gasket sets for engine rebuild
    Miscellaneous Gaskets
    Parts to build Gas Reserve and Supply for Series 10, 11 and 12
    Porcelain Franklin Service Station signs
    Fire Wall plates - Series 9 though Series 18
    Watson Stsbilitator plates - three piece and rivets in set
    Walker body plates
    Parts to build mufflers - 1907 to Series 8 and 9A, 9B, 10A and 10B
    New carburetor top for Series 8 though Series 11
    Series 16 interior door handles
    Series 12 interior door handles
    Olympic interior door handles Olympic exterior door handles
    Belt buckles with Series 12 emblem
    Felt Valve oiler pads
    Cast aluminum brake and clutch pedals
    Series 12, 13, 14 and Olympic hub caps
    Series 15 and 16 hub caps are in the works now, call for information or to place
    your order
    For more information or to order any of the above call or write
    Jeff Hasslen, 13311 95th St. NE, Elk River, MN 55330-7418 - Call after 8PM CT 763-441-7815

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